In short:
- Stop turning. Leave the broken piece where it is unless part of it sticks out and slides free with a gentle, straight pull by hand.
- Don't push the stub or another key into the lock, don't use glue, and don't dig at it with pins, knives or wire. Each of these can push the piece deeper or damage the lock.
- Keep both pieces of the key. They show where and how it broke, which helps work out whether the key or the lock was to blame.
- Keys rarely snap for no reason. A worn key or a stiff lock is a common cause, and that needs dealing with too, or the next key may go the same way.
The first few minutes
- Stop. Don't try to turn what's left of the key, and don't reach for tools.
- Check your situation. Is the door locked or unlocked? Are you outside, inside, or is there another way in and out? If you're locked in and anyone's safety is at risk, contact emergency services first.
- Look, don't poke. Is any part of the broken piece sticking out of the keyway? If it clearly is, and it slides out with a gentle, straight pull using your fingers, that's fine. If it doesn't move easily, leave it.
- Keep the other half of the key somewhere safe, and keep any spare away from the damaged lock.
- Make the property secure if the door is stuck open or unlocked: use another lockable door, or arrange for someone to stay until it's sorted.
If you're locked out, our emergency lockout service covers it. If the door is open or there's another way in, you have time to arrange broken-key extraction without rushing.
Why keys break
Understanding the cause matters, because if the lock caused the break, removing the piece won't stop it happening again. The MLA (the UK locksmiths' trade association) lists common causes:
- turning the key before it's fully inserted;
- using the wrong key;
- trying to force a jammed lock;
- holding the key while pushing the door open, which bends it;
- earlier damage, such as using the key to open paint tins.
Lock makers' instructions say much the same. EVVA's cylinder manual says not to use screwdrivers, pliers or a bunch of keys to increase turning force, not to use the key as a handle to open or close the door, not to push the key sideways while it's in the lock, and to turn it only once it's pushed in as far as it will go. It also says not to use a bent or damaged key. Mul-T-Lock asks owners to keep keys clean and straight, not to use them as tools, and to replace keys that show wear.
The lock itself is often part of the story. A lock that has been getting stiffer needs more and more force to turn, until the key gives way. If you'd noticed stiffness before the break, read why door locks go stiff, and mention it to the technician.
What to avoid doing, and why
Most of the damage after a key breaks comes from well-meant attempts to get it out. The MLA describes trying to remove a broken key yourself as probably the worst thing you can do, because it can damage the lock's internal parts and push the piece further in, making extraction slower and more expensive.
- Don't push the stub, or another key, into the lock. It drives the broken piece deeper, where it's harder to reach.
- Don't try to turn the lock with the stub, a screwdriver or anything else. If the piece is caught part-way round, turning further can jam the cylinder.
- Don't use superglue or any adhesive on the stub. Glue can run into the mechanism and set there, which can ruin a lock that would otherwise have been fine.
- Don't dig at it with hair pins, paper clips, knives or wire. These can bend the small parts inside, snap off inside the lock themselves, or wedge the broken piece more firmly. Winkhaus says plainly not to put foreign objects into the cylinder.
- Don't spray lubricant in to "help it slide out". It can carry dirt further into the lock, and makers specify different lubricants for their locks, so a random product may not suit yours.
- Don't drill the lock or lever the door. That turns an extraction into a lock replacement and possibly frame repairs.
- Don't keep using a cracked or bent spare in the same lock afterwards. It may be the next one to snap.
How it differs by lock type
| Lock type | What to know | Worth telling the technician |
|---|---|---|
| Euro-profile or oval cylinder, key on both sides | EVVA notes that on a double cylinder a key left in one side normally stops a key working from the other side, unless the cylinder has an emergency function. A broken piece can have the same effect. | Which side the key broke in, and whether a key or thumbturn on the other side still turns |
| Cylinder with a thumbturn inside | If the key broke on the outside, the thumbturn may still work from inside. Don't force it if it doesn't. | Whether the thumbturn moves |
| Lever mortice lock | The key goes right into the lock case, so a broken bit may be deeper and harder to see than in a cylinder. | The lock brand on the faceplate, and how much of the key is missing |
| Rim nightlatch | The key works the outside cylinder only. The inside knob usually still opens the latch unless it has been deadlocked. | Whether the inside knob works |
| Sliding-door lock | The lock case is narrow and the cylinder small, so there's little room for improvised tools to do anything but damage. | Door make if known; whether the door is locked |
| Security gate or padlock | Describe the gate or padlock and its lock when you call, so we can tell you whether it's something we handle. | A photo of the lock and the gate |
What helps the technician
A few details make the job quicker and help the technician arrive with the right tools:
- A clear close-up of the keyway, showing whether any of the key is visible or sticking out.
- A photo of the broken half of the key you still have, ideally next to a spare, so the missing length can be judged.
- Photos of the lock from both sides and of the door edge, showing any brand name on the faceplate or cylinder.
- Whether the key broke while it was straight (as you insert it) or part-way through a turn, and whether the door is currently locked.
- Whether the lock had been stiff before, and whether anyone has already tried to remove the piece or sprayed anything in.
- Your situation: locked out, locked in, or with another way in and out, plus any estate or complex access arrangements.
As a mobile locksmith in Sandton, the technician removes the broken piece on site with suitable extraction tools, then tests the lock with a working key.
After the key is out
Extraction is only part of the job. Once the piece is out, the lock should be checked:
- If the lock turns freely with a good key and wasn't stiff before, a worn or cracked key was probably the cause, and nothing more may be needed.
- If the lock is stiff, worn or was damaged by earlier attempts, a lock repair or replacement may be sensible. The technician will explain the options before doing more work. See lock repair or replacement.
- If you're down to one key, plan now. We don't offer key cutting, so further keys need to come from the lock's supplier, or, for restricted key systems, through the system's own ordering process. If keys are scarce or the lock is worn, replacing the cylinder or lock while it still works may make more sense than waiting for the next failure.
Look after the keys you have, too. Mul-T-Lock's maintenance advice is to inspect keys periodically and replace them when they show physical wear. A key with cracks near the shoulder, a visible bend or badly worn cuts is a key waiting to break.
Questions
Can I use superglue to pull the broken piece out?
It's not a good idea. Glue can run off the stub and set inside the mechanism, and then a lock that only needed a piece removed may need replacing.
Will the lock need replacing?
Not necessarily. Many locks work normally once the broken piece is out. Replacement comes up when the lock is damaged, badly worn, or was the reason the key broke.
Can you make me a new key from the broken pieces?
No. We don't offer key cutting or key copying. Keep both pieces, because they help show why the key broke. Use an existing spare, or get further keys from the lock's supplier. If that isn't practical, ask the technician about replacing the cylinder or lock.
Need a locksmith to look at it?
If this hasn't solved the problem, our broken-key extraction service covers it. We're a mobile locksmith in Sandton, so we come to your door.
Sources and further reading
- Master Locksmiths Association: broken key in lock — Common causes of snapped keys; DIY removal can damage the lock and push the piece deeper
- EVVA: lock cylinder installation and operating manual — Correct key use (no extra leverage, no sideways force, fully inserted, no damaged keys); double cylinders and keys left in the opposite side
- Mul-T-Lock: key and cylinder maintenance — Keep keys clean and straight, don't use them as tools, replace worn keys
- Winkhaus: profile cylinder fitting and care instructions — Don't force the key; don't put foreign objects in the cylinder
- RACV: how to maintain your locks — Contact a locksmith when a key is stuck or broken in the lock